The beauty dish is a fave of fashion photogs everywhere. I call it a “cheekbone light.” It is short, sharp and it clearly, definitively crisps out human facial architecture, especially architecture that’s been facialized, powdered, defined, beautified, and otherwise made to look all sorts of crackling super human…in other words, a thoroughly worked over fashion model’s face.
But sometimes, even for one of those extraordinary faces, I feel the beauty dish is a little much in terms of contrast and definition. It can also, at least occasionally, produce a bit of a blasted highlight on someone’s forehead, especially with those subjects who might be follically challenged. So I baffle it a little bit. Confuse it. Redirect it’s mission. With another layer of diffusion.
In the photo above, the absolutely lovely model up on the Great Wall of China is looking directly into a beauty dish. But she can’t see it. Because in front of the dish is a 3×3 Lastolite Skylite Panel, hand held, slowing down, mushing about, and just generally softening up the resolute flow of adamantly contrasty photons a beauty dish generally produces.
Here’s the process. This dish is a knock off I bought in China, adapted for an Elinchrom Ranger head. That flash head pumps a blow of light into the beauty dish deflector, which then radiates the light around this salad bowl of a light shaper. The light then hits a sock, or diffuser layer I’ve covered the dish with. (This dish has a white interior, by the way, not a silver.) Then, not liking the edgy shadow play on the model’s face, I intersected the flow of light with another layer of diffusion, in the form of the panel. The result is that the light is directional, but not slam dunk hard. It defines the model’s face, in more of a caress than a slap of light. Which I liked, at least at that moment, with daylight fading on the Great Wall, and three more outfits to shoot.